BLOG 3 /Spring 2019: Cyclades Cruise Part 1, 28 Apr to 8 May 2019

After collecting it from the local couriers’ office and fitting our new replacement mainsail, we left Lakki, in LEROS, next day (Greek Easter Sunday) for our third attempt at the 60-mile passage to the island of AMORGOS in the Eastern Cyclades, some ten miles south-east of Naxos. Third time lucky! (See Blog 2/2019.) 

Chart of the Cyclades Islands 

LEVITHA

Just under halfway to AMORGOS we passed LEVITHA which, on our two previous aborted attempts to sail to AMORGOS, we had had to pull into for the night. A great location and anchorage. 

LEVITHA anchorage 

KINAROS

Some ten miles further west we passed the island of KINAROS, a steep, barren, jagged island said to only occasionally be inhabited during the summer by a solitary shepherd and his flock. We pulled in to look at the inlet of Pringo, the island’s only anchorage. The relatively shallow and narrow inlet affords nearly all-round shelter, although given its rocky seabed one needs, as insurance, to use shore lines. With no outside view, the anchorage could be a lonely albeit safe spot. 

Google Earth view of the island of KINAROS 

AMORGOS

As we approached AMORGOS, its vertical sea cliffs on the north and east coasts and its long ridges of rugged, barren mountain tops appeared to stretch forever skywards, giving a somewhat intimidating first impression of the island. 

 View of some of AMORGOS’s 1000ft sea cliffs

The west coast of the island is altogether less rugged. Its two ports, four good anchorages and a range of small inlets and beaches are located along this more protected coastline. Indeed, around the two towns and inland, particularly in the south of the island, it is well cultivated and, where not, wild flowers grow in profusion. 

Google Earth view of AMORGOS 

In spring, drifts of wild flowers can be seen all over the island 

We pulled into Katapola Bay where the town’s port and anchorage are well protected from all but strong westerly winds. 

Katapola Bay from hill above, looking west 

After three attempts at anchor-mooring in the limited space then available on the town quay, we lost patience with the poor holding and left to anchor off the adjacent town beach where our Rocna anchor dug in solidly first time. We belatedly and accidentally made the right decision, since it was quieter, more pleasant and away from the possibility of sustaining damage caused by the wash from local ferries – a permanent danger. 

Island Drifter (ID) at anchor off Katapola town beach 

View from ID of the beach and, in the background, the town’s principal church

Following a comfortable night at anchor, we ignored the spaces that became free on the quay and simply went ashore in our dinghy – with the outboard engine, of course. A better, more independent existence than the quayside alternative. 

Town quay viewed from ID 

While in AMORGOS we hired a quad bike, the first time Mike has driven one. After several ‘false starts’, including one in front of a police car, whose occupants found it amusing, Mike got the hang of it and we ended up covering nearly 100 kms touring the island. (Too far to go/enjoy on a scooter.) 

On our hired quad bike [photo courtesy of John and Maggie Fowler, SY Lazy Pelican] 

One consequence of the island’s mountainous terrain was that it only had tracks between the villages. Its two main settlements, Katapola and Aegali, have only recently been connected by a tarmac road, thanks to – as ever – EU funding. Conversely, there is a considerable number of traditional paths crisscrossing the island, which can be enjoyed by visiting hikers. 

Aegali’s small quay and port adjacent to the attractive beach 

of Ayios Anna at the north end of AMORGOS 

Halfway between the two ports lies the large, semicircular bay and anchorage of Kalotiri, where our Australian friends Phil and Sandy Wise on their catamaran Southern Wing had anchored at the end of March. They advised that it was an excellent anchorage and location. 

Kalotiri anchorage behind the offshore islet of Nikouria  

French visitors and film buffs are attracted to Kalotaritissa Bay and anchorage at the south-west corner of the island, the principal setting, among others on the island, for Luc Besson’s film ‘Le Grand Bleu’. 

Kalotaritissa Bay and anchorage (fenced off from the public)

In the adjacent rocky cove east of Kalotaritissa Bay is the wreck of the coaster Olympia, which went aground during a winter storm in 1980. It figured prominently in Luc Besson’s film. Locals, whose ancestors had a ‘reputation’ as wreckers and pirates, ‘knowingly’ imply that the boat’s seedy background is more interesting although less romantic than the movie’s version. 

Wreck of the Olympia used as a set in the film ‘Le Grand Bleu’ 

The island’s Chora [pronounced Hora], 3 miles above the port where we anchored, is said to be one of the best-preserved examples in the Cyclades. It is dominated at its centre by a volcanic rock plug capped with a fort, which, together with the windmills on the adjacent hillside, standing like sentinels, guard the sparkling white Cycladic buildings of the town. 

Chora of AMORGOS with its fortified volcanic plug (to left of photo) 

The iconic Monastery of Chozoviotissos, the island’s principal tourist attraction, on the east coast is embedded in the towering cliffs high above the sea. It is still a working monastery, although with, these days, only four monks. Legend has it that it was founded by Palestinian refugee monks in the 9th century A.D. Even in this secular age, it manages to make an impression on the most hardened sceptic. 

Monastery of Chozoviotissos clinging to the cliffside 

Sitting quietly and admiring the location, polished wood interior, portraits, memorabilia and sweeping views, while being treated to a shot of tsipouro and sweets (Greek Turkish Delight) by the monks, must rate as the highlight of our visit to AMORGOS. (No photos were allowed!) 

AMORGOS island was one of the major Minoan settlements. It has yielded many archeological finds including the largest (almost life-size) white marble Cyclades idol yet discovered. Today the idol is the central piece of the Cycladic cultural display at the National Archeological Museum in Athens. 

AMORGOS’s beaches, such as they are, don’t compete in size or quality with those of many other islands; hence it is not on the main tourist route. Those interested in the island primarily come for its archeology and activities, hiking traditional paths, SCUBA diving, fishing, rock- and cliff-climbing. To date, dinghy sailing has not caught on. Escapists who visit appear more than happy to have found a large, relatively interesting, uncommercialised and hospitable island on which to relax. 

LITTLE CYCLADES

We always intended to use AMORGOS as a springboard for exploring the group of six tiny islands known as ‘The Little Cyclades’ which lie between AMORGOS and NAXOS. 

Chart of the Little Cyclades 

In antiquity all the islands were densely populated. By the Middle Ages, however, only goats and pirates inhabited them. Post-Independence in 1830 intrepid souls from NAXOS and AMORGOS recolonised the Little Cyclades. Today, four of the islands are inhabited: DHENOUSSA, KOUFONISIA, IRAKLIA and SKHINOUSSA. Each has a permanent population of between 100 and 200 inhabitants. 

They are hardly a secret destination, since they have strayed, in the last twenty years, from obscurity into ‘being in fashion’. Even ATMs are available in each island, although cash is ‘always’ acceptable!! However, with a limited ferry service and visitors’ accommodation they have so far avoided mass tourism. 

SKHINOUSSA

We had to tack our way west for six hours into a Force 5 head wind for the 24 miles from AMORGOS to the north-west coast of SKHINOUSSA (pronounced ‘Skinoussa’). Once inside the narrow inlet of Mirsini, the island’s only port, we found that much of the space designated for visitors was as usual taken up by small local boats and unoccupied mooring buoys. 

 

Google Earth view of SKHINOUSSA 

The island found itself in the headlines in 2006 after it was exposed as the secret base of a major antiquities smuggling operation. Once what has been described as the ‘battalions of police’ involved in the investigation finally left the island with a ferryload of illegal antiques, it returned to normal and reverted to a place where ‘nothing happens’. 

Having said that, there was almost an international incident when we arrived. In order to get on to the visitors’ quay, we began to move a local motor boat (which was hogging the quay) forward slightly to give ourselves room to tie up. We gathered, even though we do not speak Greek, that the owner who suddenly appeared (seemingly from nowhere) was not ‘happy’. Since Mike did not, our new Greek friend eventually backed off, finished moving his boat and stomped off. On reflection, we will not be including him on the Christmas List. 

Mirsini ‘port’ and inlet viewed from the north shore 

The island’s Chora is the only settlement of any size on SKHINOUSSA. It is situated a mile from the port on a narrow ridge between two hilltops in the centre of the island and has a magnificent all-round view of both SKHINOUSSA and other islands. It is composed of traditional Cycladic cubic white buildings with flat roofs and bright blue windows, doors, shutters and fitments. The island is inundated with tourists in the summer but out of season, as it was when we visited, it reverts to type and recovers its natural charm. 

Typical street view in SKHINOUSSA's Chora

The Chora is accessible from the recently upgraded, albeit small, port by an immaculate new walkway made of decorative rocks set in concrete.  Quite OTT but nevertheless attractive!

Walkway between the port and the Chora 

The sixteen beaches around the island are accessible by dirt tracks from the Chora. Although adequate, the beaches are of coarse grey sand and are not on a par with the golden sand of many neighbouring islands. Two of the southern bays, however, have good anchorages off their beaches. 

Local ferry discharging visitors and cargo 

IRAKLIA 

Our 1.5-mile passage from SKHINOUSSA to IRAKLIA (pronounced Heraklia) must rate as one of our shortest cruising passages – EVER! 

Small barren IRAKLIA is the western-most island of ‘The Little Cyclades’. Until recently the island relied totally on boats and mule tracks. Even the EU-sponsored road (which is wide enough in places to pass as a runway) between the port and the island’s Chora at Panayia and the increase in ‘pour and fill’ holiday accommodation haven’t spoiled the wild and inaccessible scenery. 

Google Earth view of IRAKLIA 

As the first stop on the ferry service from Naxos around the Little Cyclades, the island is hardly ‘undiscovered’. However, with fewer attractions and amenities than its neighbours it maintains an atmosphere of secluded retreat for its ‘get-away-from-it-all’ devotees. 

‘Small Cyclades’ ferry leaving Ay Georgios harbour as we approached 

We pulled into the island’s narrow north-east-facing inlet at Ay Georgios. The island’s only village and port is a sprawling settlement located close behind a pleasant tamarisk-fringed sandy beach. 

Ay Georgios’s sprawling village seen from an adjacent hill 

An overview, taken from the same hill, of the bay, port, 

beach and lower old village of Ay Georgios 

In the inner harbour we rafted on to a large local ‘fishing’ boat which had taken over half the ‘visitors’ quay and clearly had not been to sea for some time. 

Rafted on to a local fishing boat 

Soon after arriving Helen had her first swim of the year off the town’s excellent sandy beach. Fresh but warmer than the UK in mid-summer! 

Helen wading ashore after her first swim of the year 

At the entrance to the inlet the island boasts the first offshore desalination plant in Greece AND it is driven by both solar and wind power. 

Ay Georgios’ eco-friendly desalination plant – the only offshore one in Greece. 

While it looks a bit Heath Robinson’ish, it is said to work well 

Livadhi beach is in the next bay some 20 minutes’ walk south . The anchorage off the beach provides good holding but can be open to strong Meltemi winds. With its crystal-clear water, and pleasantly shaded sandy beach with taverna (in season) it is the major attraction for day trippers from NAXOS and PAROS. 

Livadhi beach – the best in IRAKLIA 

The village of Livadhi built of and into Hellenistic and later Venetian ruins was abandoned in 1940 and has never been repopulated. A melancholy spot. 

The island’s old hillside Chora at Panayia is now home to only a dozen houses, a church and a taverna – but it does have spectacular views. The most interesting attraction on IRAKLIA is the Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis (St John) which can be reached on foot from Panayia in a 4-hour round trip – or by boat (plus a short walk) in the summer from Ay Georgios. On 28 August each year, the evening before the anniversary of the death of John the Baptist, people assemble outside the cave which is full of stalagmites and stalactites and then crawl inside to hold a candlelit service. 

The Cave of St John is wonderfully lit by the candles 

of the worshippers on 28 August each year 

PAROS 

Given that a ‘severe’ Force 9 gale continued to be forecast for the weekend we headed north for 30 miles through the Parou–Naxou channel towards Naoussa Bay at the north end of PAROS. 

Google Earth view of PAROS 

En route, we anchored in Filizi Bay on the north-east corner of PAROS and relaxed there for the afternoon in the cockpit, before staying the night. It proved a calm and well-protected location in the strong south-westerly wind. 

Beach and dunes around Filizi Bay, PAROS. 

The mountain peaks of the island in the background 

Next morning we weighed anchor at dawn, headed out of Filizi Bay and motored around the rocky headland at the north-east tip of PAROS, before turning due south into the large indented bay of Naoussa. It was everything we’d hoped for in terms of a ‘place of refuge’: a range of anchorages that, depending on wind direction, provides excellent all-round shelter. 

While anchoring would have been our normal practice, we berthed in the town’s new, as yet uncommissioned visitors’ marina adjacent to the old fishing harbour. It has the reputation of having excellent shelter from a southerly wind together with FREE berthing, electricity and water. In addition, we reasoned that we could leave ID and explore the island while we waited for the bad weather to pass. We would not have dreamed of doing so when at anchor in a strong gale with gusts of 45 knots. 

Visitors’ marina in Naoussa 

Even so, we stayed on board on Sunday, through the peak of the gale, to ensure that our assessment of the marina and our location therein was justified – which it was. While there we enjoyed the company of John and Maggie Fowler (SY Lazy Pelican). They also keep their yacht at M&D’s boatyard in Partheni and coincidentally live quite close to our beach chalet at Calshot. 

Enjoying supper with John and Maggie Fowler (SY Lazy Pelican) 

How the other half lives! However…this monster superyacht, Ocean Victory, was too big to be moored in the harbour and therefore missed out on free electricity! We like to think the Russian owner was green with envy – but somehow we doubt it, since his net worth is 9.3 billion $. 

Ocean Victory, anchored off Naoussa town 

Naoussa village has been transformed in the last twenty years from a quiet fishing village into a stylish resort; a more fashionable alternative to Paroikia, the island’s capital. Although now a major resort with modern hotels, studio apartments and associated facilities, the town has developed sympathetically around its charming port. 

Old fishing port of Naoussa with town behind and kastro-cum-tower in the foreground 

Located around the shore of Naoussa’s bay is a wide range of excellent beaches with good seasonal tavernas, bar and cafes within easy reach of the town by car, bike or water-taxi. The outer-facing beaches, open to the Meltemi, are popular with wind- and kite-surfers. 

Although the town’s nightlife is said to be at least on a par with that of Paroikia, the capital and other main town on the island, most people go to Naoussa for the beaches and overall atmosphere. 

Since the gale had begun to abate, we hired a car to ‘look around’. Wheels are a more efficient way of gaining an overview of an island in a reasonable timescale and indeed of exploring inland than a yacht’s keel! 

PAROS is a large oval-shaped island, approximately 15 miles in diameter, which is essentially made up of two peaks of around 2500 metres each to the south-east of the island from which the land slopes down through fertile valleys to coastal plains. It has become, through its port at Paroikia, the de facto hub of the Greek ferry system in the Eastern Cyclades. It is ringed with good accessible sandy beaches, two excellent towns and an airport (albeit not international). 

The island has everything that we would expect from a Greek island: old villages, monasteries, fishing harbours, tavernas and beaches. Since eating, drinking and carousing are many other visitors’ idea of a holiday in PAROS, it is not surprising that both Paroikia and Naoussa also have a wealth of pubs, bars, discos and lengthy ‘happy hours’. 

The island was made prosperous from early Cycladic times through the export of its world-famous translucent white marble extracted by ‘slope mining’. The marble was attractive and particularly suited to the carving of fine sculptures. The Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory of Samothraki were carved from Parean marble, as was Napoleon’s tomb. One can still visit the one remaining mine at Marathi – at, the advisory notice states, one’s own risk. A powerful torch is obviously absolutely essential. 

Beginning to explore a disused marble mine at Marathi 

In 1989 we stayed for a few days, on our twentieth wedding anniversary, in a small family-owned studio complex with a taverna adjacent to an excellent deserted beach at Logaras, a bay just over the promontory from Piso Livadhi, then a quiet fishing village. Expecting the worse, we were not surprised that the area had been developed but were delighted to find that ‘our’ studio complex and taverna, while extended, were still family owned and the area had become one of the best on the island. In particular we were thrilled to meet Georgia, the daughter of the then-owner of Taverna Fisiladis, and her own daughter Johanna. 

Helen on ‘our’ beach at Logaras 

Helen sitting with Georgia and her daughter Johanna (who hadn’t been born in 1989) 

Helen about to enjoy an excellent lunch at Taverna Fisiladis in Logaras 

The old fishing harbour of Piso Livadhi has a new EU breakwater (out of shot) and the surrounding area has expanded out of all recognition. It has, however, not lost its natural charm. 

Old fishing harbour of Piso Livadhi, now somewhat smarter than when we visited in 1989 

The bustling ferry port and working city of Paroikia sets the tone architecturally for the rest of PAROS. It has typical Cycladic white buildings, punctuated by occasional Venetian-style houses and blue-domed churches. 

Ferry port and small marina at Paroikia, the island’s capital 

Near the ferry port, Paroikia has the most architecturally important church in the Aegean, the Ekatondapyliani. Enclosed by a great wall, the church is made up of three buildings. The oldest one is an adaptation of a pagan temple, while another is the old baptistery where initiates used to be dipped in a shallow pool. 

Ekatondapyliani Church in Paroikia 

Town sights apart, the real attraction of Paroikia is simply to wander the town itself, especially along Market Street (Agori) which is lined with Venetian-influenced villas, traditional island ornate walls and trendy bars and cafes. The street incorporates part of the formidable kastro from 1260 constructed from masonry pillaged from the nearby Temple of Athena – and it looks like it. 

Part of the remaining wall of the kastro built from scavenged masonry 

Inland, Lefkes, the 17th-century capital, with its marble-paved alleyways and amphitheatre setting is unparalled as a viewpoint on PAROS. 

Seven kilometres south of Paroikia is the Valley of the Butterflies, which we’d visited before in 1994 with Henry and Will. This is a walled oasis of huge trees. The black and yellow butterflies – actually Jersey Tiger Moths – proliferate in early summer. We didn’t feel the need to visit again although it is worth seeing once. 

A Jersey Tiger Moth in PAROS’s famous Valley of the Butterflies 

As soon as this gale blows through, we’ll move on. Exactly where to we don’t know, since as we’ve already found in the Cyclades the intelligent thing to do is to use the wind to one’s advantage, while always remembering that one will have to get back to where one needs to be when it’s necessary, for example to catch a flight, pick up visitors or rendezvous with sailing friends.