BLOG 4 / Spring 2019: Cyclades Cruise Part 2, 8 to 18 May 2019

After the 3-day southern gale started to abate, we left Naoussa port at the north of PAROS, where we’d taken refuge, and headed for the harbour of the island of NAXOS, overlooked by the Chora (the capital) – also confusingly called Naxos.

Route to 8 May 2019, plus that covered in this Blog    

           

NAXOS

As we approached the port, we re-learnt, the hard way, that it is essential to look aft regularly since fast hydrofoil ferry skippers enjoy creeping up on yachts at speed and then hooting.

View west over the Chora and Kastro (fort) of Naxos town showing the yacht harbour in the foreground and the ferry docks to the right.  

Naxos is a major ferry port – particularly for fast jet ferries    

     

This finally convinced us of the value (in Greece) of our new mobile AIS [Automatic Identification System] app, which allowed us to identify clearly problematic ferries and to call them up by name on the VHF when there was any doubt as to their intentions.  It was very effective since we saw them immediately change direction, where we had right of way, albeit that some deigned not to answer.  However, they knew and they also knew that everybody else within twenty miles knew that they had been called and therefore had no excuse for not taking the correct action as can be the practice with some cowboy skippers. 

AIS mobile app gives a photo of the vessel, with its name, speed, direction etc.

The town’s port looked full when we arrived.  Even so, the Harbour Master (Nikolas) found us an empty berth among local boats, which we were just able to squeeze into.  We even reversed in stern-to and used our passerelle on our new aft fitment – for the first time.  At 12€ per night including electricity and water, we were very happy with our lot – especially as we’d been advised that it would be most unlikely that we would get in,  ‘it was not possible to book in advance’ (but it is, we now know) and that 'its protection was inadequate particularly with regard to ferry wash' (which again it wasn’t!).

 Yacht harbour – full of yachts            

A causeway built to protect the harbour from northerly winds connects Naxos town with the small islet of Palatia at the mouth of the port’s entrance.  A colossal free-standing marble door frame called Portara is all that remains vertical there of the Temple of Apollo, once one of the largest temples in Greece. 

Temple of Apollo and causeway viewed from Naxos town

On arrival in the port, one could be easily persuaded that the busy tourist-orientated waterfront was a reflection of the town itself and indeed of the island as a whole. One could not be more wrong.  There is more ‘life’ and interest in the back streets of the old town (Bourgo) and labyrinth of Venetian-era mansions, fortifications, post-Byzantine churches and secluded lanes in the Kastro (fort) which looms over the town and port than on the waterfront.

Waterfront and Kastro as seen from ID’s berth.  (Sailing aficionados will have noted that ID is stern-to using our passerelle off the aft of the boat.)

NAXOS is the loftiest, largest and, it is generally considered, most magnificent of the Cyclades Islands.

Google Earth NAXOS                        

The Naxians were initially disdainful of tourism since, like Crete, the island was  able to support itself through agriculture and fishing.   That view is changing.  However, the island has benefited from the lessons learned elsewhere and hence has had the opportunity to manage its tourist industry better.  To date, the impact of tourism has been relatively benign and the island’s natural character has not been seriously damaged. Talk of a significantly extended ferry quay for cruise liners could change that!

Apart from the island’s main Chora, NAXOS’s principal attractions have always rested in its golden sandy beaches, verdant mountainous hinterland, unspoilt villages, and coastal scenery. 

We remembered well that historically NAXOS’s roads could be positively lethal.  They have now been dramatically upgraded as part of the EU’s contribution to infrastructure, thereby making NAXOS’s beaches and interior more accessible to Naxians and visitors.

The coastline south of Naxos town is a west-facing strip, in the lee of the meltemi wind, unequalled in the Aegean, which runs for kilometres between headlands and coves in a succession of excellent golden sandy beaches.  A coastal road runs parallel with the beaches, connecting the scattered houses and small holiday complexes situated along the strand.  Developments around the beaches are generally architecturally in keeping with the environment of the island. 

Ay Anna beach and nearby village

NAXOS’s attraction has, however, always rested in its mountainous interior, where a rural Greek atmosphere prevails in the villages.  Farming is a vital part of the economy.  In particular, NAXOS is known for its wine, cheese and Kitron liqueur (similar to Italian Limoncello).  

An array of Naxian cheese in a small supermarket in Naxos   

     

      

Helen sampling Kitron liqueur in the distillery at Chalki

The winding mountain tarmac roads connect a succession of traditional villages.  Four are of particular interest and attraction:

            Chalki, the former capital of the island, is a vivid reflection of historic NAXOS with handsome facades of old villas and tower houses, a legacy of its wealthy past. 

Lunch at an attractive open-air taverna in main square in Chalki           

            Filoti, situated on the slopes of Mt Zeus, at 1004 metres the highest mountain in the Cyclades, is the region’s largest village. 

Filoti village on the slopes of Mt Zeus   

              

            Apirathos is a rugged village founded by Cretan refugees who to this day speak among themselves in their own form of Greek. The village’s streets are paved in marble from the nearby mines at Kinidaros.  

Blocks of marble, resembling chunks of feta cheese, 

awaiting processing at the factory in Kinidaros    

            Koronas is the highest village on the island.  It marks the start of the steep descent to the port and village of Apollanas.

The small fishing port, now resort, and anchorage of Apollonas are at the extreme northeast tip of the island.  A huge 6th-century BC statue (kouros) lies on the hillside above the village, apparently abandoned in the quarry when its marble cracked.  When we stayed in Apollanas in 1989 it was merely a small fishing village with a few small buildings.  It has expanded significantly since then, but fortunately does not appear to have lost any of its natural charm.

Apollanas village and port with a colossal abandoned kouros (statue) in the foreground

Celebrating our return to Apollanas with Greek coffee and baklava 

in the same taverna we’d eaten at 30 years ago    

The Temple of Demeter is the most noteworthy building on NAX0S, outside the Chora. It is situated 3 kilometres south of the hamlet of Ano Sangri. Constructed around 530 BC on a low hill at the head of a fertile valley, the temple’s importance is said to lie in its unique architecture, in that it had a square floor plan with five columns and thin marble roof tiles that allowed diffused light into the interior. 

The Temple of Demeter, the most noteworthy ancient ruin in Naxos 

             

After a postponement of the new Greek Cruising Tax (TEPAI) from 2 April, it formally came into force on 9 May.   There then followed a flurry of posts on the cruisers’ nets on the subject – much of it incorrect and alarmist.  In brief, instructions for paying the cruising tax are available on line and in English. One has to provide information on oneself and the vessel and obtain through their website a 20-digit e-code and IBAN number, armed with which one can either instruct one’s bank to pay AADE (Ministry of Finance?) by bank transfer or print out the form containing the e-code and pay to the Port Police or at a bank, in cash, ensuring one obtains a stamped receipt.  Having paid on line, in our case with a currency card to avoid bank charges, we confirmed that our payment had been accepted by signing back into the TEPAI website after a couple of days and checking in the Payment Section that it said 'PAID' (in Greek!).   One is advised to take a copy of this confirmation and keep it with the boat documents, since it is understood that the Port Police are already checking if people have paid.   

Being already in the water on the day the tax was implemented, we had ten days’ grace in which to register and pay.  One does not have to pay the tax for any complete month in which one’s boat is out of the water.  One has, however, to pay for a full month even if the boat is in the water for only one day in that month.  (It’s 33€ per month for our 37ft [11.4 m] boat.  Once a vessel is over 12 metres, the cost rockets. For example, a 48ft boat [14.7m] has to pay 120€ per month)  Hence, leaving a boat in the water in a marina can now incur an additional cost.  Launching and lift-out dates also become of increasing importance.   We, for instance, will be lifting out on 30 June rather than paying for all of July when we’d only have been in the water for one or two days that month!  

DHINOUSSA

We got up early and left NAXOS soon after dawn to ensure we got to and around the northern end of the island before any (unexpected) northerly wind blew up – often the case even it’s not forecast.  As it happened, it didn’t!  This time the forecast of negligible wind was correct and we ended up motoring all the way. 

There was no wind so we motor-sailed in calm seas down the east coast of NAXOS        

DHINOUSSA, our target destination, rises steeply out of the sea some ten miles off the wilder and mainly uninhabited east coast of NAXOS.  It is the second largest but least visited of the four inhabited islands of the Little Cyclades.  

Google Earth   DHINOUSSA          

  

Our route in and out of the LITTLE CYCLADES Islands

Compared with the other islands it is a bit out on a limb.   It isn’t a convenient route or stop for ferries, hence it gets fewer visits – except in the summer.  Having said that, two ferries a day isn’t bad.

It took the ferry only five minutes to dock on and then leave the new EU quay at DHINOUSSA watched by the entire population of the village.    All 50 of them!

In high season (July and August) the island is swamped by day-trippers and holiday makers; in particular, Greeks, property owners, campers and Northern European naturists.

The bay of Kendros, on the other side of our headland in Ay Stavros port (also known as Dhinoussa as is often the custom in Greek islands), is popular with campers and naturists

Out of season, the island attracts those looking to enjoy a tranquil week or two in a traditional Greek environment with some good walks, excellent beaches and crystal-clear water in what is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and unspoilt islands in the Aegean.

Livadi bay and small anchorage   

 

Crystal-clear water off the town’s beach  

For good measure, the island is blessed with five excellent sandy beaches, a number of small accessible coves, an attractive village/ferry/fishing port, two small hamlets and, thanks to EU financing, a new tarmac road on the south and east coast, that links them up.   Traditional mule trails in the north and west of the island provide a challenge and fantastic views for hikers. 

The colourful, old and active fishing port of Ay Stavros, off which we anchored 

The new tarmac road linking the port with Kalioritissa. 
While no doubt appreciated by the half dozen inhabitants who own a car, it has been laid over much of the ancient and scenic mule trail      

Each of the five bays makes an excellent anchorage in the right wind conditions – although none is suitable in a gale from the south through to south east.

Kalioritissa hamlet and bay in the north-east corner of the island, viewed at the base of the mountain trail on our hike around the island – a particularly well-protected anchorage but not much ashore. The ‘shop’, for example, is in somebody’s house

We anchored off the town beach of Ay Stavros.  While only tenable in good weather, it was as attractive a town anchorage as we’ve been to in the Aegean.

ID at anchor off Ay Stavros town beach    

Part of the town and beach seen from ID’s anchorage  

Helen rowing ashore.   The dinghy's wheels are enormously helpful when pulling it up a beach, particularly when the engine is on board

Even Mike was finally tempted to swim in the crystal-clear waters of the bay – without complaining (much)!   H is swimming regularly and says the water is now much warmer than Calshot.

Mike swimming off the boat     

The island offers five excellent coastal/inland walks that give outstanding views of both DHINOUSSA and its neighbours – up to 30 miles away.

Looking down at the north-west corner of the island with NAXOS in the background 

We ignored local advice and knackered ourselves on the longest and most difficult hike along the south and east coast to Kaliriotissa and back to Ag Stavros on the old mule trail over Mt Papas (385 metres).

On our way down the mountain, easier walking 

than the much steeper trail on the way up from Kalioritissa   

Having left early, we just got back in time for a late (3 pm) lunch in Captain George’s Restaurant, which, together with one other overlooking the bay, appeared to be well patronised each night.  We treated ourselves to goat slowly braised in an aromatic red wine sauce and a litre of wine (between us, that is).  Quite the best goat meal we’ve had in Greece.  For Mike this was only his second drink since New Year’s Eve – having now lost his targeted two stone in weight.  Not surprisingly, since he had his ‘fair share’ of the wine, on return to the boat he had a ‘short’ siesta and woke up next morning.  Clearly, he is out of training!

Captain George’s Restaurant

KOUFOUNISSIA

We’d already dived and checked, so we knew that our anchor was wedged firmly under a rock.  We were conscious that while we were securely anchored, we could have difficulty extracting the anchor when we left. Therefore, when weighing anchor on departure we did so with an element of trepidation. Fortunately, we were able to drive it out (on the second attempt).

Thereafter we simply motored south in negligible wind to the island of KOUFOUNISSIA, the collective name for the two low-lying islands of ANO (Upper) and KATO (Lower) KOUFOUNISSIA – although these days, and in this Blog, the name is generally taken to mean the former. 

Google Earth showing both Ano and Kato Koufounissia 

  

ANO KOUFOUNISSIA is the principal of the two islands, its companion being little more than a large barren reef rising ten metres above sea level and used simply for grazing goats.  Having said that, it actually has a quay, some tarmac roads, a church, good beaches and in the summer a taverna with a great reputation.  Hence it attracts day trippers in the high season – although it has no permanent inhabitants. 

We moored in the new EU-financed harbour recently built around the ferry port dock, below the village of Koufounissia itself at the south of the island.   The harbour entrance is only 15 metres wide and rock ballast on either side further restricts the usable channel for keeled yachts to only 5 metres.  The water was so clear, however, that Helen was able to con us through the entrance without undue difficulty.

Koufounissia harbour with its narrow entrance 

On arrival we were directed to a berth on the north quay by the ‘harbour master’.  Once we were moored, he advised us that it would cost us 15€ cash if we stayed for two nights.  Sounded good value until we asked (before paying) for a written receipt.   At that stage the supposed ‘harbour master’ became indignant and then went through what we now presume is his usual routine:  ‘Receipts are only issued in high season’; ‘he would bring one tomorrow’; ‘if we didn’t settle up immediately, we would have to leave’; ‘he was trying to help us by offering us a cash deal since the price with a receipt was 40€ per night’.  We briefly conferred and confirmed our joint suspicions, after which Mike told our new ‘friend’ – ‘no official receipt for us, no money for you’.  The ‘harbour master’ then offered to reduce our ‘fee’ to 10€ for ‘finding us a space and taking our lines’ – which we hadn’t needed him to do. This he then reduced to 3€ - ‘as a goodwill gesture’ – at which stage Mike told him in Anglo Saxon, which he clearly understood, to ‘go away’.  Being the professional he was, this he did without apparent rancour. (Win some, lose some!)  A charter skipper who came in later confirmed that the guy cons most new arrivals and that the port was actually FREE since it had not yet officially opened for the year.  This might well explain why the local fishing boats were hogging almost every space on the quay.

This being Greece, it comes as no surprise that the smallest of the four inhabited islands of the Little Cyclades is the most populated and indeed accommodates the greatest number of tourists each year.

Google Earth ANO KOUFOUNISSIA  

           

It has in fact become a popular place to visit with its unspoilt gently sloping golden sandy beaches, plentiful beachside tavernas and good accommodation, all within easy access of the port by road or track.   In July and August its infrastructure in terms of accommodation, restaurants and tavernas are said to cope adequately as they expand in size each year.  In consequence prices can be negotiated out of season when supply exceeds demand. 

The island has a substantial fishing fleet normally based in the fishing port at Parianos, some mile north of the ferry port and village and in the summer on buoys off the excellent town beach in Koufounissia bay.  (Out of season they use the ‘yacht marina’!)

Koufounissia town beach with visitors’ studios and 

other forms of accommodation in the background   

To be fair, the fishermen appear to be a hard-working lot.  Not only do they provide colour and atmosphere to the island but they also keep the local community and visitors well fed.  Fish is always the first item on a taverna’s menu.  While there is room for visiting yachts to anchor in the bay off the town beach, there is no room in the fishing port other than possibly as a port of refuge, probably rafted on a fishing boat.  

Fishing port of Parianos, viewed from local fishermen’s shoreside taverna

The fishing fleet is supported by a very active, small, interesting and colourful traditional boatyard situated between the two ports at the south of the island.

Traditional boatyard which supports the fishing fleet

Ferry connections are as good as in any other island in the group.   In addition, it is easily accessible for day trippers from NAXOS. 

The island’s only village stands on a gentle hill behind the harbour. Its old attractive ‘main street’ is too narrow to admit cars. 

Koufounissia chora  

The chora’s ‘Main Street’ is too narrow to admit cars  

         

Most ‘new-build’ is either holiday homes for seasonal residents, visitors’ rooms, apartments, studios or hotels – not for the locals who are already well established.  There is a lot of new-build taking place both around the town and behind the beaches.

Prefabricated cube buildings being installed behind one of the island’s beaches

The truth is that sightseeing does not feature in most visitors’ itinerary.  The majority of  holiday makers and day trippers don’t come to KOUFOUNISSIA for much other than the beaches, good accommodation and excellent tavernas. 

One of the wider beaches on the island

    

Visitors’ accommodation and tavernas now back most beaches

Apart from the larger easily accessible sandy bays and beaches, there is a number of less accessible coves where latter-day troglodytes take up residence during the summer.  While theoretically banned, the islanders seem pretty relaxed about nudity.  Two beaches are de facto ‘nudist’, very much thanks to their relative isolation.  As is normal, those who should not, do!

A troglodyte cove         

Increasingly popular with wind surfers is the longer, wilder, sand-duned east coast bay at Pori, considered the best beach on the island.  This is a popular place for yachts to anchor since it is both a scenic location and gives reasonably good protection from the Meltemi. 

Pori bay, beach and anchorage   

Following our coastal walk around the island, we rewarded ourselves with lunch at Capetan Nicolas’s taverna: the stuffed tomatoes, peppers and aubergine ‘slipper’ were delicious.

Capetan Nicolas’s taverna is very pleasantly located overlooking the boatyard

KAROS

East of Koufounissia the island of KAROS can be seen, with its rugged mountains and steep seacliffs.  It is uninhabited, even though it is the largest of the Little Cylades islands.

KAROS viewed from Koufounissia harbour

Once the dominant member of the Little Cyclades group, it became the spiritual home, rather like Delos is for the Cyclades as a whole, of early Cycladic culture and a burial ground for the Little Cyclades inhabitants. Hence it has become an important source of archaeological information and is still an important and active site.

Casual sightseeing is not encouraged and indeed there is only one (in good weather) anchorage in the island.   It is possible to hire an ‘official’ caique in Koufounissia to go on an ‘official’ tour, but it is expensive and we didn’t go. 

ANTIPAROS

Having completed our exploration of the inhabited islands of the Little Cylades, we began to move towards Mykonos where we are due to pick up friends at the weekend.   We decided to sail via ANTIPAROS since we had the time and had not yet been there. 

The relatively low-lying island of ANTIPAROS (as compared with its immediate neighbour) lies off the southwest coast of PAROS, separated therefrom at the north by a very narrow and shallow channel. DESPOTICO and STRONGILO, the two islets to the south of ANTIPAROS,  while they may have buildings and even tavernas on them, are not permanently inhabited. The former, however, is said to have a reasonable meltemi-proof anchorage on its south coast.

Google Earth ANTIPAROS           

Under a particularly cloudy sky we sailed the 30 miles due west, from KOUFOUNISSIA to the large bay of Dhespotico between ANTIPAROS and DHESPOTICO – an excellent if not outstanding all-weather anchorage well protected from the elements and with good holding.  Not surprising therefore that in the sixteenth century it was used for R&R by pirate galleons.

Dhespotico anchorage

In the last ten years EU-financed tarmac roads between the north and south ends of the island, along the east coast, have helped to open up those areas of the coast to developers of holiday villas, small hotels and tavernas.  Looking at the preparatory grid of earthen tracks carved out by the developers behind Ay Georgios on the south coast, there is clearly much more to come.

        Development behind Ay Georgios at south end of PAROS

Having received, admittedly as previously scheduled, the proof of the OCC quarterly newsletter from Jeremy Firth, the editor, in Tasmania, and with friends arriving in two days’ time, Helen accepted her lot and ended up proofreading all day and indeed into the night.  Such voluntary work never arrives at a convenient time! 

Copy of front page of OCC March 2019 Newsletter  [ã OCC Org]  

Meanwhile, Mike motored ashore by dinghy, given the size of the bay, and walked to the ot her end of the island, to the town of Antiparos and – since the bus wasn't running that day –back again!   The town and the pleasure and ferry boat port form the centre of the island’s life, at least before east-coast ribbon and more extensive property development around Ay Georgios in the south.  Arguably it still does.

        Town, port and anchorage of Antiparos

                  

The town’s quays are, however, completely dominated by local, pleasure and ferry boats and much of the bay is too shallow to anchor in, while other spaces are either limited or ‘said to get in the way’ of ferry traffic ‘which has priority’.   On the positive side, it is possible to anchor and the town has good facilities.   While there, Mike enjoyed an excellent lunch – meatballs with potatoes and carrots in a lemon sauce, washed down with a litre of refreshing water!

Locally caught octopus hanging up to ‘season’ 
outside the portside taverna where Mike had lunch

Apart from tavernas, bars and boutiques, the principal attraction for visitors to both the town and island is its excellent beaches which accommodate the ‘needs’ of families, surfers and nudists. 

Antiparos town’s local beach looked inviting with its tamarisk-shaded sand and beach bar

Sufficient remnants exist for visitors to study and understand the layout of the town’s Kastro, which is well worth visiting. Based on a Venetian design, the fort’s walls were made up of the population’s houses which had thick outer walls and whose windows and doors faced only into the courtyard. The small, stone Gothic archway, which was the sole entrance to the fort, still stands.  Even today, it is the only way into the courtyard other than through the private houses of the fort where the owners have made new entrances in the outer walls.  The base of the fort’s observation tower at the centre of the courtyard still stands.

The 14th-century entrance arch into the fort still stands

The island’s once (arguably still) world-famous caves are within easy walking distance of Ay Georgios, off which we anchored.  They remain mightily impressive and are well worth visiting despite their modern narrow concrete walkways and electric lighting (Health & Safety!) and the looting and damage to stalagmites and stalactites.  The walls and indeed the ‘mites’ and ‘tites’ are covered in historic graffiti dating back over 300 years – the most notable vandals being King Otho of Greece and Lord Byron!

One of the Caves of Antiparos

MYKONOS

With a 50-mile passage ahead of us we left early for the MYKONOS area – against a light headwind but on a relatively calm sea.   Fortunately we’d anticipated that while not forecast, a northerly wind could arise and it took 12 hours to reach MYKONOS, as compared with the ten hours expected.  Even so we did make it and anchored in Korfus Bay south of Mykonos and its old harbour where yachts are no longer allowed to moor.  

We await the arrival of our friends Max and Sue Walker tomorrow evening.