BLOG 5 / Spring 2019: Cyclades Cruise Part 3, 19 May to 2 June 2019

Our apologies! This Blog is longer than usual since it covers that part of our cruise of the Cyclades Islands with our friends Max and Sue Walker and we covered a lot of ground. The chart below shows our progress to date including the route covered in this Blog.

 Cyclades Islands showing route covered   

MYKONOS

After a 50-mile passage from ANTIPAROS we anchored in Korfus Cove at the southern end of Mykonou Bay, on the west coast of MYKONOS, some 3 miles south of the town itself.  It proved a well-protected anchorage in the strong southerly wind that was both currently blowing and forecast to continue for the next 36 hours.

Google Earth © MYKONOS

After a comfortable night at anchor, we reviewed our options.  In doing so, we visited the town’s marina for yachts, adjacent to the ferry port and cruise liner dock at the north end of Mikonou Bay before concluding that we were better off staying anchored where we were.

Anchored in Korfus Bay, MYKONOS

Marina (right); ferry and cruise liner dock (left)

That evening we were joined by Max and Sue Walker who had flown in on an EasyJet flight from Manchester. Max had worked initially for British Steel and subsequently ran a steel stockholding business.  On his early retirement he set up and ran a yacht delivery business for nearly 30 years. Indeed, he provided Mike with much of his delivery work following Mike’s own early retirement in 1998 from a ‘proper’ job. 

Max and Sue didn’t waste any time finding a gelateria!

Boosted by direct air links with Europe, cruise ship docks, one of the most scenic harbours in the Med, a profusion of good sandy beaches and the nearby premier Greek sightseeing island of DELOS, MYKONOS has become one of the most popular, ‘high profile’ and expensive islands in the Cyclades.

In high season one should only visit if bank-rolled, intent on joining the young, jostling street crowds and oiled-up lounger lifestyle at the island’s packed beaches – and the relentless party scene.  In the shoulder season (as now – just) the worst of the glitter, glamour and preening of ‘celebrities’ disappear and one (at least we) can enjoy the island’s natural charms.

Mykonos town is the only large settlement on the island.  Its old harbour is stunningly attractive.

Mykonos old harbour photographed in the summer  

                      

With its headland topped by windmills, it has an abundance of whitewashed cubic houses riddled with alleyways. Its street maze is one of the largest of its kind in Greece.  On his first visit, Mike actually got lost and had to buy a map to ‘escape’.

Street scene in Mykonos’s maze of alleyways

Little Venice: colourful seafront and balconies in the old quarter

Windmills abound on the island: cynics might think that 

they have been renovated simply for the tourists...

After Mykonos town’s celebrated night life, the island’s beaches are the biggest draw.  We hired a scooter to visit them to see for ourselves.  They each have a particular reputation, be it for straight, LGBT, nude or tekkie visitors.   

Beach at Platis Gialos

Like nearby TINOS, MYKONOS has its fair share of elaborately constructed Venetian dovecotes. 

A Mykonese Dovecote – only slightly less elaborate than those on neighbouring TINOS

Simon and Lin Clarke (SY Mia Hara) had read our Blog and seen that we were in Korfus Bay. They sailed from TINOS to DELOS and then anchored next to us in ‘our’ bay!  They joined us for sundowners and gave us some very good advice on how to visit DELOS by yacht.  

DELOS

Being in MYKONOS, ‘next door’ to the island of DELOS, it was inconceivable that we would pass by on our passage to SYROS and not visit.   
 (See above for Google Earth overview.)

The mythical birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, DELOS was a shrine turned sacred treasury and commercial centre.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of the most important archaeological locations in Greece.

Overview of the Delos Archaeological Site on west coast of the island

For nearly a thousand years, DELOS was the political and religious centre of the Aegean.  The Romans turned it into a trade centre and made it a free port. It also became Greece’s major slave market.

The island is 5 kms long and 1km wide.  It has no permanent population, although it receives many thousands of visitors. Overnight stays are not allowed and tourist boats are only permitted to remain for a maximum of 4 hours on any visit. 

The first of the tourist boats arrived at 10.15

Yachts may anchor off the quay during opening hours, but may not stay overnight.  We therefore arrived at 8 a.m. and had nearly 3 hours on our own in peace and solitude on the site before the tourist trip boats arrived.

ID at anchor off DELOS

The remains of ancient DELOS managed to conjure up for us the past grandeur of this small, sacred isle. 

The famous original Naxian lions of Delos (the ones outside are plastercast copies)

From May to October this year, visitors can see an ‘installation’ of 29 sculptures by Sir Anthony Gormley, made during the last twenty years. Five are specially commissioned new works for Delos.   We were greeted at the entrance by one of the larger figures.

 Max and his new ‘friend’

RINIA

The rocky barren island of RINIA is separated from DELOS by the narrow Delos Strait.  When the meltemi blows, this strait turns into a wind acceleration zone and one is advised to reef early.  Historically the island’s anchorages have been used as harbours of refuge since one of the seven will at any time provide shelter from a gale.  One has, however, to take care to avoid the many reefs and rocks that fringe the island. 

 RINIA island in the background, the immediate neighbour of DELOS

The island is almost divided into two by a narrow isthmus.  There are several sizeable farms on the island, together with some large flocks of sheep and goats, and there is even a small herd of cows. 

SYROS

Once we’d concluded our visit to DELOS, we headed around the north of RINIA before turning towards the island of SYROS, twenty miles away.

                                                     Google Earth © SYROS                             

An oddity among Greek islands, SYROS avoided the chaos and destruction encountered by most Aegean islands at the hands of pirates from the 17th century onwards thanks to the patronage and protection of its Catholic community by the French monarchy. They were also able to remain precariously neutral during the War of Independence with the Turks in the 1820s. During the war, however, the island’s Catholic population gave refuge to Chios’s many Greek Orthodox refugees who in turn gave SYROS’s economy a massive boost through their energy and entrepreneurial skills. As a consequence of this, combined with the benefits of a superb natural harbour and its role as the Aegean’s major coal-bunkering port, it became one of the most prosperous of the Aegean islands and hence the capital, legal and administrative centre of the Cyclades.

Statue of Admiral Andreas Miaouli, a Greek hero in the fight for Independence, 

in front of the imposing Town Hall situated in the large Miaoulis Square

Today SYROS remains a working island, with only a fleeting (recent) history of tourism. While it is one of the smallest inhabited island in the Cyclades, it has the highest permanent population of any island and is regaining its position as the ferry hub for the Northern Cyclades islands.

SYROS is a hilly, mostly barren island.  To the north it is rugged and sparsely inhabited, while the south has more gentle slopes and is well cultivated near the coast. The majority of the population live in Ermoupolis, the island’s capital and port.

While the island has a range of reasonable anchorages, primarily on the west and south coasts, we chose to pull into the magnificent harbour of Ermoupolis.  Although encouraged by friends to use the harbour’s new uncommissioned (free!) yacht marina (some two miles north of the city itself), we decided instead to anchor-moor bows-to on the city’s visitors’ quay – which looked more interesting.

Ermoupolis harbour with visitors’ yacht quay in the foreground, the unfinished marina in the background, the ferry dock to the right and large floating shipyard in the centre

Close-up of quay for visiting yachts

There, on the quay, after an hour or so, we were surrounded by a rally of 18 yachts from the sailing club of Macedonia (the Former Republic of Yugoslavia – not Greek Macedonia).  They were a cheerful and helpful bunch, although some crews were not over-qualified in the art of Med Mooring as witnessed by their arrival and departure.  Our immediate neighbour, Nikola Barakovsi, was clearly in control of his crew and had no problems.  He has since contacted us through the Blog and is thinking of coming back to the Aegean with his family in the autumn, so we are keeping in touch.

One of a number of incidents that arose when our Macedonian friends left port!  

Fortunately they had not picked up OUR anchor

As we approached the town from the sea, we were faced with an elegant vista of pastel-coloured town houses rising majestically from the seafront of bustling cafes, tavernas and shops and the immediate streets behind.   It is generally considered to be one of the most striking cities in the Cyclades. 

The first view of the attractive city of Ermoupolis when arriving by ferry or yacht

The city’s steep staircases of marble slabs enables enthusiasts to climb to the top of each of the hills overlooking the port.  Very aerobic exercise!

The lower steps of one of the steep staircases up the city’s hills

Ermoupolis’s faded Neo-Classical charm gives SYROS something that neighbouring islands cannot match and contrasts with the traditional whitewashed Cycladic villages that dominate elsewhere.

Greek Orthodox Cathedral in the wealthy merchants’ old quarter of the city

The island is famous for the manufacture of Loukoumades – Greek ‘Turkish Delight’ – which it both exports and sells through specialised outlets in the town.

Locally made Loukoumades – delicious!

SIFNOS

We approached Vathi bay in SIFNOS, our anchorage of choice, on our passage south from SYROS.  In doing so, we passed close by its rugged northern and western coasts and the island’s ferry port of Kamares. 

                                                    Google Earth © SIFNOS      

 

Kamares, the only other reasonable option on the west coast to Vathí, is a fishing village-come-ferry port and holiday resort. It has a long sandy beach backed and overlooked by holiday accommodation, tavernas and shops.  Our friends Rolf and Roz on SY R&R tell us that it is a good anchorage in which to stay.

Kamares town, ferry port, bay and beach

Vathí, on the south-west coast, where we anchored, is a small holiday resort on the sandy shores of an almost circular enclosed bay. It is attractively lined with holiday accommodation, some old tavernas, cafes and a small shop, which are strung out along the beach.

Vathí bay from new road winding above the bay

Even a new tarmac-surface access road and luxury hotel resort have not destroyed the character of this previously remote spot.  That character is accentuated by the white monastery of Taxiárhis located on a small promontory on the water front.

Monastery of Taxiárhis on Vathí village’s waterfront

The Elies Resort is a gated and walled 5-star hotel complex on the lower slope and beach at the south end of the bay.  Apparently every employee is attired in a starched white uniform, a bit like in a private hospital!   It offers luxurious surroundings and claims to have the largest swimming pool in the Cyclades. It is frequented, we understand, by celebrities, politicians, industrialists and their families. 

 The Olympic-sized swimming pool in the Elies Resort, Vathí

The island of SIFNOS is prettier, tidier and more cultivated than its neighbours.  In keeping with its high-class clientele, rough camping and nudity are not tolerated on the island. Its modest size and vast network of paths make for good walking. 

SIFNOS was once one of the richest islands in the Aegean, before its gold and silver mines, which went under the sea, were flooded.  It is now known for its pottery.

 Potter displaying a clay beehive

The island has a reputation for its cuisine and in particular for its sophisticated casseroles cooked in clay-fired ‘gastres’ (pots) – from where the word ‘gastronomy’ derives.

Traditional clay oven in which SIFNOS’s famous casseroles are cooked

While there are a few other anchorages on the island, the bay, anchorages and small marina of Platis Gialos are probably the  best, although untenable in southerly winds.

 Platis Gialos bay where we enjoyed lunch right on the beach

Small yacht quay at Platis Gialos

It is a steep 5-mile bus ride from the coast to Apollonia, the centre of an amalgam of 5 hilltop villages which over the years have merged into one community.   With its white buildings, steep paths, belfries, blue domes and flowers it is a scenic location. 

Apollonia town, the capital of SIFNOS

The island is best known today for its Kastro, many beautiful churches and monasteries that are scattered throughout.

Kastro, SIFNOS

Monastery of Panagia Poulati close to Kastro

We were highly impressed by this small island’s medical system.  Mike needed to have a check-up on his leg which was giving him trouble.  He was dealt with by a doctor immediately, whose service was free, although the prescription had to be paid for in the pharmacy (at 9€ who cares?). No one wanted to see his E111.

MILOS

MILOS, some 35 miles south of SIFNOS, is the most south-westerly of the Cyclades Islands.  Like its more scenic and touristic neighbour, SANTORINI, MILOS is volcanic in origin (unlike other islands in the archipelago).   Both islands look similar in shape with high ground arched around a large central bay with an entrance to the sea, where part of the surrounds of the bay collapsed. 

 Google Earth © MILOS      

                                

There the similarity between the two islands ends.  While SANTORINI ‘bay’ is a caldera, resulting from an enormous explosion, that in MILOS is due to a large number of smaller explosions that have by chance built MILOS island and bay into the shape it is.

One of the other, more obvious differences between the two islands is their level of tourism: MILOS came very late on to the tourist scene, having traditionally relied on mining as the mainstay of the economy.

Disused mining buildings are frequent sights        

As advised in one of the travel guides, we visited the Mining Museum in the port of Adhámas soon after arriving, in order to better understand how mining has shaped the island’s appearance, history and economy before actually exploring it. It was well worth the visit. The two short films, with English sub-titles, where elderly miners described their working life and conditions were quite moving.  

An old scoop cart in the foyer of the Milos Mining Museum 

A retired miner describing working conditions (frame taken from Museum’s videos)  

The island’s mining history dates back to the Neolithic period when obsidian was extracted for the Minoan world of Crete.  Later, kaolin, pozzolana, perlite and bentonite have been extensively quarried. 

The wealthy mining companies still employ over 30% of the population and the island has the largest perlite and bentonite deposits in the EU. Both minerals, we now know, are used in a wide range of products, none of which we would have guessed at.  

Mining has left huge scars on the landscape but in return has given the island prosperity that is reflected in the condition of property and the vibrancy of its population. 

 The scars left by mining can actually be very colourful     

Terraces left by open-cast mining     

              

We anchor-moored bows-to in Adhámas port’s floating pontoon managed under the auspices of Port Milos – at only 6€ a night.  By far the biggest and best port and location on the island.  It is only, however, halfway (5 miles!) into the enormous Milou Bay which has many safe anchorages along its shores.

Port Milos visitors’ floating pontoon to the left       

The port was a ‘little bit’ on the shallow side so we had to put a couple of 25kg ‘angels’ on our anchor rode to ensure that it submerged deeper and wasn’t fouled by other boats’ keels.

Two 'angels' hanging from the anchor rode seen 

         through the crystal-clear water of the port             

Adhámas was originally settled by Cretan refugees in the 17th century. The town, where the back streets are paved in marble, looks architecturally more Cretan than Cycladean.  What is irrefutable is that it appears vibrant, prosperous and remarkably smart.  It boasts a (EU financed?) redeveloped waterfront and promenade and, we are advised, the finest ferry ‘passenger shed’ in the Aegean.  Built on a plug of magma, Plaka has evolved as a town on a hill and enjoys great views of the enormous Milou Bay.

Adhámas town with port visible to the left       

North of Adhámas lies the classical centre of MILOS.  This is the second highest point on the island and is dominated by a cluster of four attractive villages, the prettiest of which is Plaka, the island’s capital. It is a whitewashed chora with the usual maze of narrow streets in which to get lost.

View from the sea of Plaka, the island’s capital

Plaka’s main church has spectacular views over the bay and Aegean.  We went one evening to watch the sun set at 2030 hours among the islands of the Aegean.  So too did a large wedding party and a young Brazilian couple who were on their honeymoon.

Sun setting into the Aegean, viewed from Plaka    

By chance, a wedding party had also chosen to watch the sun set  

prior to the wedding in the church behind us              

    

To the south of the town there is a marble plaque declaring the spot where the famous Venus de Milo statue was found by a farmer in 1820.  The actual statue now resides in the Louvre in Paris, albeit, as a sop, an exact plaster replica has been supplied by the Louvre and can be seen in the town’s Archaeological Museum.

Plaque showing where the Venus de Milo is supposed to have been discovered

Plaster replica of the Venus de Milo.  In Greece, she is known as the Aphrodite of Milos

We enjoyed lunch on our day’s exploration by car at the tiny fishing port of Klima, situated below the Chora.  The hamlet contains a string of fishermen’s colourful houses on the shore: their ground floors are used to house boats and the upper floors for living.   The area was understandably crawling with artists and one has a feeling that it will not be long before the fishermen’s houses become up-market studio apartments for visitors – something that has already begun.

Fishermen’s boat sheds (with homes above) at Klima    

 Enjoying a delicious veggie lunch by the sea at Klima   

The town and port of Pollonia, on the north-east coast, is the other main tourist centre on the island.   The bay in which the port is located is well sheltered from southerly winds and reasonably well sheltered from northerlies.  It was also – and still is – a fishermen’s village and their boats bob at anchor or on buoys in the bay.

        Pollonia, the second port on MILOS which is becoming very much a tourist resort                                                          

MILOS and its internal bay of Milou are rimmed with a splendid range of beaches in different coloured sand and stone:  kaypak – rust coloured; provatos – golden; arelli – snow-white; and the list could go on. Indeed, the island claims to have the longest stretch of beach line of all the Cyclades islands.

Palichori Beach on south coast of MILOS is a 

very attractive and accessible location, therefore popular!   

                                 

KIMOLOS island, perched off the north-east tip of MILOS, feels like a step back in time.  They have barely a trickle of visitors, although there are daily trip boats from MILOS itself. It offers fantastic sienna-coloured walls, hand hewn from volcanic stone and many quiet sparkling bays. 

The local inhabitants do not exactly enthuse about visiting Athenians, since in reprisal for not assisting them with their war with Sparta, the Athenians executed all adult males and sold the women and children into slavery, before repopulating the island with 500 Athenians (who, incidentally, were thrown out by the Spartans after the Athenians lost the Peloponnese War).

Most of the west of MILOS, two-thirds of KIMOLOS and the whole of the uninhabited island of POLIARGOS, comprise a nature reserve protecting three endemic species: the Milos viper and crocodile-shaped wall lizard; and the Mediterranean Seal.

FOLEGANDROS

The island of FOLEGRANDOS is 25 miles from MILOS, midway to SANTORINI (aka THIRA). It lies on the southern edge of the Cyclades with the sea of CRETE to its south.

Google Earth © FOLEGANDROS    

   

In many places the island’s sheer cliffs rise over 300m from the sea.  The remote, rugged life of islanders on this high barren windswept island was only eased as late as 1974 by the arrival of electricity and the subsequent construction of a road running from the port to the Chora.

Approaching the port on the island’s ‘new’ road in the bus from the Chora

A more traditional means of travel  

  

Despite its tiny size (12 x 4 miles) and population of only 700 people, FOLEGANDROS has played a not insignificant role in its nation’s recent history.  Many Greeks were exiled here during both the 1930s dictatorship and the Colonels Junta until as late as 1974, following an historic precedent set by the Romans.

Today FOLEGANROS has become an increasingly trendy location for Greek, French and Italian visitors in particular, with a predictable effect on prices and retail therapy opportunities. Indeed, Greek journalists speak of FOLEGANDROS as ‘a MYKONOS in the making’.

A very smart boutique hotel in the Chora of FOLEGANDROS

                  

We anchored off the town’s beach at Karavostasis, since the six spaces allocated for visitors on the port’s quay were ‘in use’ and an enormous Superyacht, with a tender as large as ID, had booked to ‘park’ on the rest of the quay.

Superyacht Bliss and its tender taking a large amount of space on the visitors’ quay.  

Cost the new owner only a cool 15m€   

                     

We could clearly see our anchor and chain in the 10 metres of crystal-clear water.

ID at anchor seen from fishermen’s quay       

 

Around the port there are several small hotels, apartments, rooms, several cafes/tavernas, a complex of small holiday houses out of town on the hill overlooking the bay, and a reasonable town beach.  Low key but rather nice.

The island’s crown jewel, however, is the Chora, 3 kilometres up the hill, where prices reflect its popularity.   

Chora perched on the edge of cliff      

               

The Chora is perched on a cliff-edge plateau.  Visitors and inhabitants mingle at the cafes and tavernas under the shady trees in the five linked squares, passing the time undisturbed by traffic, which is banned in the village centre.

Enjoying a beer in one of the Chora’s five tree-shaded squares 

A typical street scene in the Chora’s maze    

Sea cliffs below the Chora                  

Towards the northern cliff edge and entered through arcades, the defensive core of the medieval Kastro neighbourhood is marked by ranks of attractive and colourful two-storey houses.

The outer wall of the island’s Kastro (fort) which encompasses the Chora      

                   

The island’s potentially biggest tourist attraction, the large cave at Chrissospilia, is closed to the public to allow archaeological excavation to continue.  Early indications suggest that the cave was used as a place for some ancient youth rituals. 

Cave of Chrissospilia

North-west of the Chora, a paved road spreads its way along the spine of the island towards the settlement of Ano Meria – a scattered community of small farms and buildings that stretch for several kilometres. This is traditional FOLEGANDROS, where tourism has made no significant inroads.

There is a range of beaches around the island, some very good and others indifferent. Most do not have tavernas and can only be reached by various lengths of walk on earthen tracks. One is advised to take water!

Beach of Agios Nikolaos, FOLEGANDROS

SANTORINI (THIRA)

The most visually spectacular of the Greek Islands (and also one of the most expensive), SANTORINI is subjected to ever-increasing waves of tourists drawn by the scenic location, archaeological discoveries at Akrotiri and the legend of Atlantis. 

Google Earth © SANTORINI     

It manages its tourism well.  Street cleaners, for example, work through the night to ensure that the island is ready for the next day’s cruise ships and thousands of visitors they have to cope with each day.

Tourists being ‘shuttled’ ashore from their cruise liner  

One is immediately faced when entering the vast bay, a flooded caldera (see below) by the steep 300m multi-coloured cliffs of THIRA, the principal crescent-shaped island, which encircles much of the indigo waters. The sea cliffs, in shades of red, brown, grey, green and slate-blue, drop sheer into the waters of the bay, and keep going down for another 300 metres. White Cycladic houses line the cliff rim and cling tenanciously like icing to the terraced rocks below. The cruise liners in the water below are dwarfed by the cliffs and do not look out of place as they lie at anchor.

Cruise ships anchored in the bay below the Chora

300m multi-coloured cliffs below the Chora

The inhabited islet (280 people) of THIRASIA is another part of the caldera rim, while in the middle of the bay itself, the KAMINERI islets, both volcanic plugs, are simply an active mass of cinder and lava.  It is reputed that they are infested by large, bold, aggressive rats.  We had no need or desire to take on any further passengers or crew, so we gave them a wide berth.

THIRASIA – a separate part of the caldera rim   

Plug of magma and lava in the centre of the bay

There are a number of anchorages and ports around the islands,but holding and space are limiting factors for visiting yachts. Probably the best is Vlikadha, on the south-east outer corner of the island. Although some way from anywhere, it does offer good shelter and therefore one can  avoid concern when leaving one’s boat to explore the island. To do so, one can catch a bus or taxi ‘into town’.  Some cruisers prefer to leave their boats in IOS and catch a ferry across to SANTORINI. 

Vlikadha: the best location for a yacht to stay in Santorini   

      Finikia town and harbour where yachts could anchor off

Once inhabited by the Minoans from CRETE, the island was circular and called STRONGILI (‘the round one’).  Around 1613 BC, a colossal volcanic eruption of some 60 cubic kilometres of magma caused the centre of the island to sink, leaving a caldera 10 kilometres in diameter, with towering cliffs in a crescent shape on its east side.  Indeed, there have been six major eruptions over the years.   The first, in 235BC, resulted in the island of THIRASIA from the north-west end of THIRA. In 1956 a massive earthquake caused enormous damage throughout the island and generated a 17m-high tsunami in the Mediterranean.  

SANTORINI is one of the largest active calderas in the world. It is five times the size of Krakatoa near Java, which erupted in 1883.  Hence, we were ‘slightly’ concerned as we sailed through the caldera!

Entering the flooded caldera                   

     

It is now thought by many that the 1613BC eruption was the origin of the Atlantis Legend.  The flooding of the sea into the caldera probably gave sailors at that time the impression that the greater part of the island had sunk, taking the Minoan settlements with them. 

Nestling in an undistinguished ravine that runs down to the sea from Akrotiri village lies to Pompei-like Minoan town that has elevated SANTORINI to the top of the archaeological world’s map. It is a complete town buried by ash and pumice from the massive eruption that blew apart the pre-Santorini island.  One interesting conclusion reached from the dig to date is that there was nobody left in the village; archaeologists have concluded that the inhabitants were forewarned and therefore left the island before the eruption.

Akrotiri – the Pompei-like Minoan town buried by ash and pumice  

SANTORINI is not all about the caldera and its surrounds.  On its eastern and southern sides the island slopes gently down to the sea, where holiday homes and resorts have developed around the beaches of fine, black volcanic sand.  We stopped there some 30 years ago, when backpacking by ferry, in a very pleasant room near one of the beaches, well off the main tourist track. Inland, there are still some charming traditional villages such as Vounoculos to the north and Pyrgos to the south. 

Beach of  black sand on the east coast of SANTORINI

The island’s soil is particularly fertile. SANTORINI is in fact one of Greece’s most important wine producers, mainly from the Assyrtika grape, said to be a perfect accompaniment to sea food!

IOS

Google Earth © IOS          

         

Our next port of call, the island of IOS, developed a reputation in the sixties as a popular destination for students attracted by its reputation of a heady cocktail of SSS.  Today it remains popular with young backpackers, particularly in July and August when the island becomes ludricrously overcrowded and ‘youth’ do their best to maintain the ‘standards’ of their forefathers. 

In the summer, however, there are said to be serious problems with noise, sanitation, drunkenness, alcohol-induced violence and theft – significantly more so than in other islands. 

The growth in family holidays in the islands in the shoulder seasons brings a touch of normality to IOS.  Indeed, we have all found it rather pleasant, but there aren’t many young holiday makers around yet. 

When we arrived after visiting SANTORINI we were surprised by the number of yachts moored in the harbour. Even so, we managed to find a small corner tucked in behind a mole. The fishermen there even helped us with our lines and moved their boat back five metres to make more room.

Port and town of IOS viewed from above

Gialos port has traditionally been a valued anchorage for seafarers with its excellent holding and protection from the wind.  The Turks called it ‘Little Malta’ (Malta is generally considered to be probably the best harbour in the Mediterranean).   These days the only problem, however, as with many Greek ports, is that the half-dozen ferries that arrive each day seem to delight in creating as much wash as possible, resulting in boats rocking violently and their masts thrashing back and forth. We now try to ‘stagger park’ to avoid our masts getting damaged by our neighbours’.

The other issue we had in IOS was that a large stink boat mooring on the opposite quay simply came across and dropped its two anchors over our anchor and rode, on the grounds that it was bigger and could. To be fair, when Mike went round to speak to the owner and skipper, they agreed to leave early to avoid any problems for us when they left…even so.

The local ‘tourist board’ struggle somewhat with regard to ‘sights’ to recommend to visitors. For instance, Homer’s grave is allegedly at the northern end of the island.  If you read the small print there is a stone there said to have come from his grave ‘somewhere’ albeit there is no evidence to back this up.

In truth, everything worth doing or seeing in IOS is within 3 kilometres of the port: namely the Chora set up on the hill overlooking the port; the island’s principal beaches and the port itself. 

 IOS’s Chora from town square

Ios town (known as The Village) at the top of the hill and reached by either the zigzagging tarmac road or a stone and concrete staircase of half the distance, is built on two small hills, with the main town square occupying a hollow between them. During daylight hours the town retains much of its old village atmosphere. Come dusk windows and doors open at street level to reveal a profusion of bars, discos, night clubs, fast-food joints, tavernas and shops, most of which remain open until well after dawn.

Night club: note free entry before 3 a.m.!

After nightlife, the other attraction of IOS is Mylopotas Beach – one of the best in the Aegean.  A long wide stretch of golden sand backed by trees and a scattering of beach bars and tavernas and holiday accommodation. It is even long enough to accommodate the high season crowds who have sufficient energy after the night’s activities to make it to the beach from the chora.  The port also has a quality beach which primarily serves holiday makers staying nearby.

Mylopotas Beach, considered one of the best in the Aegean

Gialos town beach

The rest of the island is very hilly, rugged and barren. There are, however, a number of good beaches around the island which accommodate the needs of more enthusiastic sun lovers.

SIKINOS

Located equi-distance between FOLEGANDROS and IOS is the island of SIKINOS which we gave a miss as we were beginning to run out of time on our cruise with Max and Sue.  The island is, however, called, with justification we understand, ‘the wine island’ so maybe we’ll see if we can fit it in at another time!

The island has a reasonable harbour which provides good protection from the meltemi but is open to southerly winds. There is an anchorage outside the port and another one at the south of the island which can be used if the port is full.

SERIFOS

From seaward the dome-like island of SERIFOS (Mt Troulos – 583 metres) looked empty and barren.  Only when we got closer did the white houses of the Chora come into focus and only later when we could finally see into Livadhiou Bay did the barren landscape turn into a green oasis.

Google Earth © SERIFOS

Livadhi Port has had a complete makeover, no doubt courtesy of Brussels – apparently no expense spared.  It is now said to provide excellent all-round shelter. Ferry wash, which used to be a problem, has been eliminated.

Livadhi Port, SERIFOS

   Brussels concrete quay

The marina and anchorages off and adjacent to the town beach are said to be magnets for charter yachts during the week and Athenians during the weekends.

 Livadhi beach adjacent to the port is also a good anchorage in a very pleasant location

By chance when we arrived on Thursday afternoon the former had just left and the latter had not yet arrived.  Also by chance on the quay at the entrance to the marina were Roger and Freda Collinson on their yacht Maresca who, like us, keep their boat in M&D’s boatyard in Partheni, LEROS.

The visitors’ quays were fairly empty following the departure of charter yachts earlier that day. The town’s large beach at the head of the bay lies in the background                   

Most visitors stay in the small hotels, apartments and rooms in Livadhi town and around its large bay. The picturesque sun-baked town is pleasantly low key although its roadside front around the town and bay has acquired the usual trappings required by summer tourists.  The beach tavernas and bars are generally nicely situated on the beach and well shaded.

The Chora of SERIFOS spills across the summit of a rocky hill above Livadhi and is one of the most striking of the Cyclades capitals. 

Chora seen from the sea 

A road leads up to the Chora.  Alternatively, one can walk up a stone and concrete path in 40 minutes.  Mike did so in the company of a local fisherman who lives in the Chora and was much fitter than Mike (who to his credit did manage to hang on).  Unfortunately neither of them spoke a word of the other’s language but they appeared to have set the world to rights between them!

Selfie of Mike and his new local fisherman friend

The steps lead up to a charming main square watched over by a Neo-Classical town hall.  From the square, narrow alleys and more steps lead ever-upwards to several small churches carved into the rock and built over the site of the Temple of Athena and the remains of the ruined 15th century Kastro, from where there is a spectacular view of the harbour.

Harbour and bay seen from the top of the Chora             

        

As the village houses cascade down the slope, the alleyways lead to a bright blue-domed church, near which is the Chora’s carpark.  From the Chora, serious walkers can follow numbered trails that head north and crisscross the island.

The island abounds in little bays, many still unspoilt and very quiet outside of the high season.  Two of the coves once had mines, the buildings of which today make handy tavernas.  

In Greek Mythology SERIFOS is where Perseus grew up and where the Cyclops were said to live.  The King of Argos had banished his daughter Danaë and her son Perseus from his kingdom. They were given safe haven in SERIFOS by King Polydectes.   Wanting to get Perseus out of the way while he pursued Danaë, King Polydectes sent him off on the seemingly impossible task of killing the Medusa and returning with her head. However, assisted by a few gods, Perseus was successful and returned just in time to save Danaë from being ravished by producing the Gorgon’s severed head thereby turning the King and his court into stone.

Perseus with the severed head of Medusa

KITHNOS

The island of KITHNOS has the earliest known Cycladic settlement, dating from before 4500BC. 

Today it is one of the lesser visited and lower key of the larger Cycladic Islands – an antidote to some of the over-development in other islands. Interestingly, we understand that credit cards, for instance, were not generally accepted on the island until some ten years ago.

Google Earth © view of KITHNOS

Visitors don’t come to KITHNOS for the sightseeing.  The island’s principal attraction is its lack of attractions!   None of the principal locations can offer much in terms of tourist appeal, other than the indisputable fact that they are unspoilt communities, while the rest of the island is spectacularly undramatic.

We stopped in KITHNOS because it was a convenient place on our way to Athens where we were dropping off Max and Sue AND also words like ‘unspoilt’, ‘low key’, ‘few tourists’, ‘very Greek’ appealed to us. We also needed to get Max’s hand checked out as it had swollen badly after an insect (of some sort) bite.

Max’s swollen hand resulting from insect bite  

   

We anchor-moored bows-to on the visitors’ quay at the island’s largest town and ferry port of Merikha on the west coast. 

ID in Merikha port’s visitors’ quay     

Harbour Master, Greek style    

Cafes and tavernas line the roadside along the two sides and head of the bay behind the port and quite a reasonable town beach. 

Town beach at dawn   

The town supplies the vast majority of accommodation for visitors on the island.  In consequence from being ‘just a fishing/ferry port’ it is emerging as a resort in its own right in the absence of a better alternative elsewhere.   Inland there are two settlements, Chora and Driopida, and another coastal settlement at Loutra.

The Chora is located amid a gentle undulating plain in the centre of the island. For all its lack of ‘sights’, it has plenty of white-washed charm.  With no tourist accommodation, it has ensured that it has remained unspoilt.  Donkeys linger around every corner. Here they earn their keep in the traditional way instead of, as in many islands, where they carry well-heeled tourists around.

The village of Driopida, located in a fertile valley, is arguably more attractive than the capital with its red-tiled roofs reminiscent of those in neighbouring KEA, some ten miles north.  Its particular claim to fame is the Koutalas caves which extend for over 1 kilometre underground and have several lakes. Sadly they are closed due to lack of funds.

The hot water springs at Loutra, the island’s second (significantly smaller) port, have been esteemed throughout history.  That is with the exception of current history where spa resorts have become unfashionable.  The truth is, the local baths are pretty run down. One does, however, have the option of going to the south of the town’s beach where hot waters flow freely in every sense of the word.

The island has a range of good if not excellent beaches and anchorage. The most interesting by far are those around Kolona (the Sandbar beach) where a tombolo joins the islet of Agios Loukas to the island of KITHNOS itself and thereby splits the anchorage in two, providing a natural barrier against fetch from either east or west.

                                              Tombolo at Sand Bar Bay

The rest of KITHNOS is low-key countryside speckled with thyme from which the island’s renowned honey is produced in the many beehives.  

That evening there was a spectacular sunset         

VARKIZA (ATHENS)

When we came to leave the quay at KITHNOS, we found that the small speedboat moored alongside had laid, as we thought they had, their anchor across our tape rode. Not a major problem but nevertheless annoying having watched the unprofessional manner in which they had come in and dropped their anchor in the first place.

Basic tool used to untangle one’s neighbour’s anchor 

when he has dropped it over one’s own         

                           

After an 8-hour passage we anchored outside the swimming area off the beach at Varkiza.  With light variable winds forecast and with good holding in sand, we did not anticipate any overnight problems.  The plan is to leave early on Sunday morning and get to the Piraeus Yacht Club by midday.

From what we can see – and we’ve no intention of going ashore – there is a vey long beach which, if it were not for the myriad of sunshades and loungers which totally dominate it, would be a pleasant location.

View of Varkiza beach from ID 

Chart plotter view of Varkiza beach   

                        

It was not helped by the disco music blasting out from the shore nor water skiers, etc, who are attracted like magnets to yachts.  Even so, with the sun out, good holding and a decent drink and meal it suited us fine. 

  Fishing Harbour of Varkiza       

 MOUNIKHIAS YACHT CLUB HARBOUR, PIRAEUS

Having considered various options, we eventually decided to take up the offer by the Ocean Cruising Club's Port Officer for Athens, Dimitris Liaroutsos, who had advertised the availability of his berth to OCC members on the Piraeus Sailing Club pontoons in the Mounikhias Yacht Club Harbour.  It was, on reflection, the perfect place to drop off Max, Sue and Helen for their respective flights to the UK – Max and Sue to return home and for Helen to nip back to see our daughter-in-law Lesley in a play (‘A BELLY FULL’ at The Mill at Sonning) and of course to see Emmy, our granddaughter.

Mike remained on ID with the objective of exploring the waterfront of Athens. 

ALSO SEE BLOG 6 ON ATHENS WHICH WILL BE ISSUED AT THE SAME TIME AS THIS BLOG.